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(Anaheims, with mild heat and thin flesh, are a delicious substitute.) The vegetables can be cooked just-tender or mashed to a pulp. To my taste, the savory alliums were an essential counterpoint to the sweet tomatoes and lightly spicy sivri biber, the slender green peppers used in Turkey. “No color at all,” Robyn Eckhardt, acclaimed journalist and author of Istanbul & Beyond (2017), specified when we chatted about the dish. When onions are included, it’s customary to cook them to translucent softness. Setting out to develop my own recipe, I cast my ballot on the onion question. Named after a district in the country’s Izmir Province, the vegetable-forward eggs are embellished with fresh herbs, spicy‑smoky pul biber chile flakes, tulum cheese (a salty sheep or goat’s milk variety) or beyaz peynir (a semisoft brined type), and scooped straight from the skillet with the crusty, torpedo-shaped bread called günlük ekmek. During childhood road trips to Ankara or Istanbul when her family would stop to eat, “always it was menemen,” she recalled. When I spoke to Filiz Zorlu, author of Contemporary Turkish Cooking (2007), she commented on the ubiquity of the simple, satisfying egg dish. It’s only natural that the topic should be so hotly debated, as menemen is central to Turkish foodways.

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